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Buying a used motorbike: the checks that matter

Most bad buys could have been spotted from the MOT history and the log book before anyone turned a key. Here's the order to do the checks in, what to look at when you view, and the paperwork once it's yours.

Last checked against GOV.UK: 2 November 2026

Before you go and see it

Ask the seller for the registration number, make, model and the MOT test number. Then do three free checks from home.

Check DVLA's details match. GOV.UK's free vehicle enquiry service shows what DVLA holds, including the make, colour, tax and MOT status. If anything doesn't match the advert, ask why.
Check the MOT history. Every test since 2005 for bikes in England, Scotland and Wales, with the mileage and any defects or advisories. Use GOV.UK or our free motorbike MOT check, which flags warning signs for you.
Check for recalls. GOV.UK's recall checker shows outstanding safety recalls for many makes. Ask the seller whether recall work was done.

What to look for in the MOT history

Mileage that goes down between tests, or barely moves for years and then jumps. See our guide to spotting a clocked motorbike.
Gaps. A missing year or two usually means it was laid up or SORN. That's common with bikes, but ask, and ask how it was stored.
Repeat advisories. The same tyre, chain or brake advisory year after year says a lot about how it's been maintained.
Fails and how they were fixed. A fail followed by a pass on the same day or soon after is normal. Dangerous defects, or a history of corrosion and bearing advisories, deserve questions.
Signs of a fall. Advisories about bent levers, damaged footrests or a damaged frame can point to crash damage.
The expiry date. If the MOT runs out soon, agree who pays for the next one.

Finance, theft and write-offs

MOT history doesn't tell you if a bike has outstanding finance, has been reported stolen or has been written off by an insurer. A paid vehicle history check from a reputable provider covers these. On a bike worth more than a few hundred pounds it's money well spent: a bike with outstanding finance can still belong to the finance company, not the seller.

Checking the V5C log book

Ask to see the V5C (log book) when you view the bike. Don't buy without one.

Watermark. Hold it to the light: a genuine V5C has a "DVL" watermark.
Serial number. If it's between BG8229501 and BG9999030, or BI2305501 and BI2800000, the V5C might be stolen. Don't buy, and contact the police when it's safe to.
VIN and engine number. Check the VIN (frame number, usually stamped on the steering head) and the engine number against the V5C. They must match.
Keeper details. The V5C shows the registered keeper, who isn't always the legal owner. Make sure you're buying from the person named, at the address shown. If they're not, find out why before going further.
Details match. Make, model, colour and engine size should match the bike and the advert.

Walk away if the VIN looks tampered with, the seller wants to meet somewhere other than the address on the V5C, the log book is "at the DVLA", or they push for a quick cash sale before you've checked.

The viewing checklist

View in daylight, in the dry, and take a torch. If you're not confident, take a friend who knows bikes.

Cold start. Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive, and feel it. Listen for rattles, smoke and how easily it starts and idles.
Chain and sprockets. Pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket: if it lifts a lot, the chain is worn. Hooked or pointed sprocket teeth mean both need replacing.
Tyres. Tread depth, cracking, squared-off profiles and the date code. Budget-brand or mismatched tyres can say something about how it was kept.
Brakes. Pad depth, scored or lipped discs, lever feel and the colour of the fluid. Dark fluid hasn't been changed for a while.
Forks. Look for oil on the fork legs and pitting on the chrome stanchions. Pitted stanchions eat fork seals.
Bearings. With the front wheel off the ground if possible, turn the bars lock to lock: any notch in the centre means worn head bearings. Rock the wheels side to side for play.
Crash damage. Scuffed bar ends, levers, footrest tips, mirrors, engine cases and the silencer. New levers or indicators on one side only. Check the bars and forks look straight.
Electrics. Every light, indicator, the horn, the dash and any heated grips or accessories. Look under the seat for messy wiring.
Service history. Stamped book, receipts, or a record from an app. Check the mileages line up with the MOT history.
Keys. Ask how many there are. Replacing a coded key can be expensive.

The test ride

Insurance. You must be insured to ride it. Many bike policies don't let you ride other bikes, so check yours, or ask whether the seller's policy covers you. If neither does, don't ride it.
Licence. Your licence must cover the bike. An A1 licence covers up to 125cc and 11 kW, A2 up to 35 kW, and a full A licence any bike. A CBT on its own doesn't cover a test ride on anything above learner limits.
Security. A seller may ask for the cash or your car keys as security while you ride. That's reasonable. Don't hand over cash before you've decided.
On the ride, check it runs straight with a light grip on the bars, brakes evenly, changes gear cleanly, and the clutch doesn't slip under hard acceleration.

Paying safely

Pay by bank transfer and keep a written receipt naming the bike, VIN, price, date and both parties. Make sure the transfer is to an account in the seller's name.
Never pay a deposit for a bike you haven't seen, and be very wary of sellers who are "away" and offering delivery.
Buying from a dealer generally gives you more consumer rights than a private sale, so weigh that against a lower private price.

After you buy

Get the new keeper slip. The seller should give you the green "new keeper" slip (V5C/2) from the log book. You need it to tax the bike.
Insure it before you ride it home.
Tax it straight away. Vehicle tax doesn't transfer with the bike. You must tax it before riding, or make a SORN if it's staying off the road. A SORN doesn't transfer either.
Make sure DVLA knows. The seller should tell DVLA online or post the V5C. You'll be sent a new log book. If it hasn't arrived after 4 weeks, contact DVLA. If you report it after 6 weeks, a replacement costs £25.
Book a service unless there's a recent, documented one, and check the MOT date.

Check before you hand over cash

Tickover's used-bike check spots mileage that goes backwards, long gaps between MOTs and major defects in a bike's history. If you buy it, add it to your garage in one tap.

Run a free MOT check

Quick answers

Does vehicle tax transfer when you buy a motorbike?

No. Tax isn't transferred to the new keeper. You must tax the bike before riding it, using the green new keeper slip, or declare it SORN.

How do I know if a V5C is genuine?

Check for a DVL watermark, and that the serial number isn't between BG8229501 and BG9999030 or BI2305501 and BI2800000, which may be stolen. The VIN and engine number must match the bike.

Does an MOT history check show if a bike is stolen or on finance?

No. MOT history shows tests, mileage and defects. Use a paid vehicle history check for finance, theft and write-off records.

Can I test ride a motorbike on a CBT?

Only a bike within learner limits, with L plates, and you must be insured for it. For anything bigger you need the right full licence category.

How long does it take to get the new V5C?

GOV.UK doesn't give a fixed time. If it hasn't arrived after 4 weeks, contact DVLA. After 6 weeks a replacement costs £25.

What should I look for in a motorbike's MOT history?

Mileage that goes down or stalls, long gaps, repeat advisories on tyres, chains and brakes, and dangerous defects or signs of crash damage.

Related guides

Sources

This guide is general information, not legal advice. Rules can change: check GOV.UK before you act. Tickover is independent and not affiliated with the DVLA or DVSA.